This will be my First Tech Tip and Newsletter attempt so critics out there be nice and don't slam me too hard!
Today I’m going to touch base in an attempt to help you guys & girls out there try and make your sealed engine or Blitz 4,as it’s now become known, to last a little longer for you before it’s time to rebuild.
If your not aware of the fact I’m no longer rebuilding sealed engines for 600 Racing. I was the chief rebuilder for them for nearly two and a half years. The reason I left the program is not important; what is important is how can I help you maintain your engines performance longer before that rebuild comes due.
The Sealed Engine with the chrome bore cylinder is more heat sensitive than a 1200 engine, thus it requires more attention to the issue than does a cast iron sleeved 1200. Just about all items in the engine will transfer over to a 1200 with the exception of the cylinderwhich is the only real difference. The chrome bore has never been a favorite for many an engine builders, nor has it been kind to air-cooled engines. In a water-cooled application it works much better; however it can still create problems. The huge variance in temperatures of Legends Car racing creates a whole new set of problems for the chrome bore cylinder it uses. That being said, the issue of cooling becomes much more vital with the sealed engine.
First and foremost, I will say up front if your running anything other than my 2 Stage Remote, your decreasing your odds already in attempting to help your engine last longer. I’m not going to give you a sales pitch. The bottom line is my system will boost oil pressure, circulate your oil more times during a race, and carry more heat to your coolers from the advanced boost in oil pressure.
Remember the words Air Cooled; that’s what this engine is. It's not air and oil cooled, but air-cooled. Using the rulebook, cut as many holes in your fenders and hood as allowed to help circulate more air. A large duct under the headers to the rear 2 cylinders should be cut on a 70-degree angle, then wired right up against the rear 2 cylinders is best. Go to Lowe’s and get aluminum dryer duct vent line, splice it and add an in-line brake fan or Bilge fan to it toward the front either a bumper scoop or head light scoop to the fan then under the headers to the cylinder. As soon as you hit the track turn your fan on, not just caution laps, keep that fresh air moving across the cylinder. Holes at the rear of your fenders toward your running boards will help evacuate the hot air. A good cooler is a MUST!
I use the Setrab Dual Pass 920 Fan Pack, plumbed to my system with all AN 8 Lines. A second cooler from the main bearing galley to the cooler to the top oiler lines will help drop cylinder head heat as much as 25 degrees. This system I’m speaking of is used only with my remote system, you cannot use it with the stock system. DO NOT use the Oil Pan Port to your overhead oilers. That path kills the cam journal as well as the head journals. It’s not filtered plus your main bearing galley will still carry that low oil pressure problem.
The 3 Pass Cooler 600 sells will work fine too; I just like mine because it has a much lower profile. For the Top Oiler I use the Setrab 910 Cooler with the AN 6 fitting from the main bearing galley to the cooler. I then reduce it to the #AN 4 line to the top oiler lines. The 910 Setrab Cooler is what was used on Legends and may still come on them. If you have that cooler, keep it and use it as I described, but you need to get a good cooler for the rest of the engine, along with the 3 Port Oil Filter Housing. You are free to choose what you will, but I’m here to help you and that’s my suggestion. If you don’t want mine, look elsewhere, but please take notice. If you do not follow my advice, be prepared to purchase a new cylinder everytime you need a rebuild.
I can be reached through Email at email@example.com, My phone number is (704) 784-4554 or Fax (704) 784.4558 for advice or consultation regarding questions about cooling and your oil system.
Now about REBUILDS! Two people I will recommend that both are sealed engine rebuild shops, both do quality work, and both are trustworthy, fine men. Both will build it right or it will not leave their shop. They are both my friends, true, but I have many friends that I would not send you to for a rebuild. These two I will highly recommend equally. Ken Joyce Racing in Nashville, Tennessee and Curt Andrew / Andrews Motorsports in Concord, NC. I know there are others out there, I’m telling you whom I would use for sealed engine rebuilds. You want it right, they will build it right. If I can help any of you in anyway; it doesn’t matter to me if you have a sealed engine, mine or one of someone else’s engine. call, fax or email me! I’ll help you anyway I can.
Thanks, and good luck!
Hank Scott / HSR Services